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Beginner Resource Hub!

This post aims to draw together a bunch of research that helped me get started cubing, pulling on advice from other cubers, resources on this subreddit, and external articles. The idea is to cover the basics, answer the FAQs and collate links to other resources for further reading.
(please bear in mind this is a round up of advice through the lens of my own bias, I am not claiming any advice here to be the way things should be done, just to provide a starting point to people who don’t yet know how things could be done)

Post breakdown:

0 - WHAT IS A CUBE?:

“A cube is a ... collection of (often powerful) cards used for drafting and playing Limited. Drafting a cube is similar to drafting booster packs, but instead of drafting from three fifteen-card Magic booster packs, you draft from fifteen-card "packs" that you create from your cube.” - Building Your First Cube)
Tolarian Community College - What is a Magic: The Gathering Cube?
How many players do I need to play my cube?:
Cube can be enjoyed with anywhere between 2-8 players. A brilliant summary of different draft methods for different player counts can be found here

1 - QUICK START:

So you like the look of cube and want to get started playing the best limited format ASAP? Here are some of the easiest ways to start building and playing Cube:
If you decide to build your own first cube, as long as you have reasonably even colour sections and a curves similar to what you might want to draft in retail limited you will produce an environment that will be a blast to play.
Other early facets you may wish to explore are:
Remember, you can always add and remove cards as you see fit. It’s not necessary to agonise over individual card choice at this point (although of course you may if that floats your boat).
CubeCobra is the community favourite cube management website. It is similar to existing decklist websites (mtggoldfish etc.), but made specifically for cube. It has all sorts of tools for managing, analysing and playtesting your cube, and is invaluable for a cube designer.
Playing your cube: Playing paper magic is currently challenging to impossible depending on where you are in the world. See the Resource Hub for ways to play your cube online.
Bonus Link - Lucky paper - How and why to build a cube (podcast)

2 - DETAILED START:

To help make this section more searchable/digestible I’ve split it into what I’d consider to be the key elements to think about when building your first cube:
​
2.1 Size 2.2 Power & Removal 2.3 Curve and Cardtype Balance 2.4 Archetypes 2.5 Signposting 2.6 Gold count
2.7 Nonbasic lands 2.8 Colourless 2.9 Colourless Ramp 2.10 Singleton or Not? 2.11 Board State 2.12 Devotion
2.13 First Cube
​
2.1 SIZE:
The size of your cube affects a number of factors, such as card density, number of players, variation between drafts, cohesion of archetypes etc. Typical cube sizes are multiples of 180 (as they divide nicely into 15 card packs)
2.2 POWER (and power consistency):
How powerful do you want the contents of your cube to be?u/land_of_Mordor has written up a brilliant shorthand for differentiating cube power levels here This scale ranges from 1 (Retail limited) to 10 (Fully powered, absolute strongest cards in magic the gathering)
It is important to consider power consistency when building your cube. Ideally most of your cards ought to sit at a roughly equal power band to provide fun and fair gameplay. For an extreme example, a cube that runs sol ring (found in ~strix 8+) should not include drastically lower power cards such as celestial prism (and vice versa). Ideally you don’t want situations where your drafters win because they have the “better” cards than their opponent. Cube is an opportunity to move away from the chaff/bombs divide present in retail limited.
A useful tool for gauging the balance in your cube after building it is to use the filters in CubeCobra to sort your cube by “Elo” and scrutinise any outliers. The elo system ranks cards by recording each card picked against every other card passed in a pack. <1000 elo is very low >2000 elo is incredibly high (power 9 sit in this spot).
Due to how elo is calculated it doesn’t take into account:
In summary, Elo is a useful tool to flag outliers, but individual card merit should still be assessed by the cube designer in the environment they are creating.
2.2(a) REMOVAL:
Removal in cube plays a significant role in how your environment functions and its overall power level. Density and efficiency are the main dials of removal that can be tweaked to adjust your format.
Ideally density and efficiency of removal should reflect the rest of your cube. For example, high efficiency high density removal is best suited to environments that have very efficient threats.
Efficiency can be adjusted by raising/lowering the CMC of removal spells (Murder vs Daring Demolition), deciding on instant vs sorcery, or including removal with restrictions/drawbacks (Bone Splinters)
Attaching removal to bodies increases both density and efficiency. E.g. Ravenous Chupacabra
Density can otherwise be adjusted by increasing/decreasing the removal card count in your environment.
2.3 CURVE AND CARD TYPE BALANCE:
Character limit -I'll put this section in a comment.
2.4 ARCHETYPES:
You may wish to decide on supported archetypes at the inception of your cube, or allow them to present themselves through play of your quick start cube.
Archetype support is a tricky beast, many cube designers have differing opinions on how (or even if) archetype support should be implemented. Two main axis that archetype support can be measured on are “Parasitism” and “Weight”
"Parasitism in cube" video and thread
Parasitic strategies work within their own defined bounds, don’t care much about other cards, and are underperformers/useless outside of their strategy.
Running cards that have a good floor (i.e. worst case scenario) but improve in your chosen archetypes is a good way to reduce parasitism in your cube. Additionally, running cards that fit multiple archetypes can be desirable e.g. Rimrock Knight is useful to mono R aggro, spells matters, and weenies
“Weight” is the term I’m giving to the measurement of how prominent each archetype is in each colour. A lower weight may allow for more organic strategies to develop in your draft environment A higher weight may result in drafters feeling like they are being pushed to do what you "want" them to do
For example if you run 20 Prowess creatures in red and white, players may feel obliged to lean into the strategy given to them instead of having the agency to build their own unique deck.
Where your cube sits on the Parasitism/Weight scale will be personal to you, and will likely change as you develop and adjust your cube. You and your playgroup's enjoyment can help drive these decisions.
u/Japahn has an excellent article here on archetype design in cube.
2.5 SIGNPOSTING:
Signpost cards are cards that support and communicate the presence of a strategy to drafters. These can be used effectively to help players understand what is possible in your cube. For example, if a player opens a pack and sees Thermo Alchemist and/or Talrand, Sky Summoner they might reasonably believe that a “Spellslinger” theme is present in your cube.
In the same line of thinking, it can be worth avoiding false signposts that lead players to believe a strategy or theme is present that actually doesn’t exist. For example one half of the blood combo without the other, or otherwise playable cards that suggest a strategy that doesn’t exist e.g. Champion of Dusk without vampire tribal.
You may even consider eliminating one-off mechanics for comprehension. E.g. I cut Aether hub in favour of Tendo Ice Bridge after a drafter was disappointed that Energy wasn’t a present mechanic in the cube.
Gold cards are a good opportunity to show your drafters some of the strategies possible in each colour combination. This should feel familiar to players, as WotC employs the same design in their retail sets.
2.6 GOLD COUNT:
Gold cards can be very fun, they act as good signposts and are often players’ & designers’ favourite cards. The temptation to include lots of gold cards is high among beginning cube designers for these reasons, however a lower count is generally more beneficial for the environment.
Fundamentally, gold cards are relevant to far fewer players and have a tendancy to wheel around the table before landing with a player who doesn’t want them.
For example, a Lightning Helix is very relevant to your Boros drafter (if there even is one this session), lightly relevant to your Naya/Jeskai/Mardu drafters (if there are any) and irrelevant to everyone else. In contrast Lightning Strike is relevant to ⅕ of your Mono colour drafters. 5/10 of your 2 colour drafters and 6/10 of your 3 colour drafters. Someone at your table will be playing red, and this card is guaranteed to be relevant and desirable.
More cards able to be played by more people in more strategies = more agency for your drafters
20-30 gold cards in 360 anecdotally works very nicely.
2.7 NONBASIC LANDS:
Good fixing in cube is crucial to help games run smoothly. Not being able to play magic due to mana screw is one of the least enjoyable aspects of the game. Good fixing reduces the number of feel bad games your drafters experience due to poor variance.
30-40 lands in 360 cards will help ensure the games are more enjoyable for everyone. Unfortunately, good lands can be expensive, but proxy printing/sharpie changes can solve this issue! (proxy resource links below)
(it is worth noting a risk of too much fixing is that everyone is able to draft 5 colour piles of the best cards(this may still happen even at lower land count if 7 of your drafters ignore the fixing and one player snaps up 20 lands))
2.8 COLOURLESS:
Colourless cards are effectively “free” picks for your drafters, allowing them to remain open in the draft while providing powerful effects. Fun utility cards and curve filling creatures are perfect candidates for the colourless section.
Due to the “free” nature of colourless cards, you may wish to balance them in such a way that they don’t outclass your coloured cards.
2.9 COLOURLESS RAMP:
Colourless ramp such as Sol Ring and Dimir Signet allow your drafters to cheat past the early stages of the game. Be very cautious about including cheap colourless ramp in any lower powered environment.
Reasons to be careful:
  1. Strong ramp can invalidate aggro
  2. If you want ramp to be part of Green’s identity, colourless ramp can invalidate it (or reduce its uniqueness)
  3. It can cause swingy games based on variance - Opponent plays a T1 sol ring and you have no ramp. You’re almost guaranteed to lose
A rough guide for rocks that produce 1 mana:
Don’t be fooled by “enters tapped” clauses. Sphere of the Suns is still likely too strong for a low powered cube.
Bonus: Rock List
2.10 SINGLETON OR NOT?:
Breaking singleton is a fine thing to do, but typically is only worth doing to fulfil a design goal that can’t be achieved by another unique card. A common singleton break is for nonbasic lands, as cube designers often want to provide the best possible fixing for their drafters.
The first iteration of my cube broke singleton in a few places and it was fine, but very quickly I felt like I was wasting slots that I'd rather use to increase variety and replayability.
Interesting write-up on breaking singleton by u/Karametric
2.11 BOARD STATE:
Do you want a front heavy (i.e. 3/2 creatures) or a back heavy (i.e. 2/3 creatures) board state? This article discusses the advantages of a front heavy board state.
I won’t repeat the detail of this article here as I’ve nothing extra to add, but the main point is that a front heavy board allows for meaningful attacks and reduces board stalls.
2.12 DEVOTION:
Cards with a high colour devotion (i.e. multiple coloured pips in their casting cost) are more difficult to cast by more of your drafters. For example Knight of the White Orchid can only reliably be cast on curve by a mono white (or heavily white) deck. Cards with low CMC and high devotion are particularly problematic, as finding 2 white by turn 2 in a Selesnya deck is a lot harder than finding 2 white by turn 5 to cast Regal Caracal.
When designing with this in mind, high devotion cards can be used to tune the accessibility & viability of 3+ colour decks.
2.13 FIRST CUBE:
u/Fleme’s write up on assessing your first cube was a massive boon for reviewing the first cube I built. Reading this before and/or after building your cube should provide lots of useful insight.

3 EXTRA

Cube Costs:
Within reason, cube can be as expensive or cheap as you want it to be. Here’s a quick breakdown of costs associated with cube:

4 RESOURCE HUB

A hub for cube and draft resources!
Many of the resources below have been discussed and analysed in a vast number of different articles/videos/podcasts. If any one topic takes your interest, a quick google will almost always lead you to more content on a topic. E.g. Quadrant theory has been analysed by a plethora of different players on many platforms. One just has to google.
Sidebar:
The sidebar on the right of this subreddit contains lots of useful links to podcasts/discord channels/popular threads etc. Check out what it has to offer.(If you are on mobile, sidebar links can be accessed by scrolling to the top of the subreddit and pressing the "about" button in the right/centre of the page)
How to draft:
Card Evaluation:
How to shuffle:
Booster pack options:
Cube shell/Cubamajig comparison (s)
Ways to play online:
Accessories:
Proxying:
Premade cubes:
Popular cubes to copy/gain inspiration from:
EDH/Commander Resources:
Other:
Extras:
Shameless plug:
If anyone has any feedback, suggestions or useful links that ought to be included, please do let me know :)
submitted by agile_drunk to mtgcube [link] [comments]

New to online Slots? - Starter guide/tips for newbies playing online slots

Okay so I decided to create this guide with the hopes of it becoming a sticky thread for all newbies to the online slots world, to read as we deal with the same topics repeatedly and the same answers/advice are given repeatedly. Not that we do not want to help, but these would prevent you from getting into situations before its too late, or blaming casinos when you were in the wrong.
Signing up or Registration
Registration – Please carefully read the general terms and conditions about every "Right" the casino has and please note that you accepted these terms upon signing up, which means you are saying you are okay with it and agree with what the casino state about what they can and cannot do.
Claiming Bonuses
Read the bonus terms carefully before claiming any bonuses and look for the following pointers when reading the bonuses rules:
There are other bonus terms that I have not mentioned but I think the above ones are the most important as these could affect you in terms of confiscation of your winnings should you breach any of them.
Verification
This is pretty much standard for a casino to ask for some form of Identification, proof of address and proof of deposit when requesting a withdrawal. Depending on the amount win, some casinos might not need documents, however when a substantial amount has been won additional verification or security checks might be done which means a longer withdrawal time frame. Verification or KYC is necessary, however I feel when casinos ask for selfies with your ID next to you etc. in my opinion is just ridiculous. Also, I have noticed some casinos requesting your source of income to see where you get the money to make deposits etc. This seems standard and you would need to do it to get your withdrawal, however all of us have different opinions about this verification procedure.
Withdrawals
Many casinos have different withdrawal time frames and when you accept the general terms and conditions you have to a abide by them, by this I mean stop being impatient and complain that the casinos withdrawal time frames are the worst etc. As you knew this before you started playing provided you have read the terms and condition. You decided to deposit and play so then wait for your money, eventually it will come unless you breached some rule, or the casino is a rogue casino.
Here are some of the tips you should note when it comes to withdrawals at casinos:
Self-Exclusion
Self-Exclusion is a big thing these days and most cases substantial amounts are involved that are being confiscated. There are at times very little that us forum members or even AskGamblers can do when a player self-excluded and played at a sister website or similar, as we know the result and of course the house is kind of right. However, I think it's bad that a casino only realizes the self-exclusion portion on a player profile once it reaches withdrawal stage, because I feel they should have something in place that can detect that you self-excluded upon registration or before you even make your first deposit. People with gambling problems tend to self-exclude but the alternative is to read this guide - https://www.askgamblers.com/forum/topic/2152-sos-i-am-addicted-to-gambling-what-to-do/ . My advice is to keep your casino account open and do not play there anymore, because even if you request a permanent account closure, some casinos tend to self-exclude you without you knowing it and this would cause problems in future since you opened another account at their sister website or something.
submitted by Sea_Yogurtcloset_752 to bestcasinoscanada [link] [comments]

Here are the results from the r/golf 2020 Census!

A big thanks to the 2055 of you who took a moment to complete the recent golf 2020 census.
This is a tremendous response and should provide a reasonable sample size among active users of this sub. Caveat: while my IRL work has a lot to do with digital media and numbers, I am no data scientist or Excel whiz, so I'm sure this isn't quite as good as it could be, but it's all I have time to do with now!
So without further ado, here are the results (and I have made the data available here if anyone wants to take a peek or slice and dice it for themselves). You can view natively in your browser, or simply click the 'download' button in the top right.
I might edit this later with some more findings, but that's enough for now! I'll be really interested to know what you think. What results surprise you? What results were you sure of? Please post and discuss your feedback!
1. How old are you? The average age of golf is 30.01 years. It's also the most common age selected in the census with 144 of you identifying as exactly 30 years old, 135 of you identifying as 31 and 134 identifying as 28 years.
The oldest respondent is 72 (and has a handicap of 5). The youngest respondent was 13, which is the minimum age to have a reddit account, which is why I cut it off there. The two 13-year-olds identify as being off 12 and 6 handicaps.
Just 108 of the sample size are teenagers, representing a mere of 5.26% of respondents.
2. What is your gender? A whopping 98.2% of us identify as male and just 1.1% female. I knew this sub was heavily skewed to men, but that's a LOT more than I expected.
3. What is your relationship status? 41.9% of this sub is married, 29.7% are in a relationship and 27.5% are single.
The average handicap of married golfers is 17.0, single 17.5 while golfers in a relationship are 18.4, suggesting this latter category is prioriting other matters in life :)
0.8% of married golfers and 1.1% of both single and golfers in relationship are better than scratch players
4. Where do you live? 79.7% of you live in the United States Canada is second with 8.1% and the UK third with 4.4%.
The top 10 is:
Country Count
USA 1637
Canada 166
UK 90
Australia 27
Sweden 26
Ireland 23
New Zealand 11
Norway 10
Germany 8
Netherlands/Denmark/Finland 7
There are single representatives from Antigua, the Bahamas, Dominican Republic, Georgia, Greece, Grenada, Iceland, Italy, Mexico, Oman, Pakistan, Poland, Romania and Thailand.
5. In which US state do you live? Here is where the Americans among us live:
State Count
California 171
Texas 108
New York 88
Illinois 69
Pennsylvania 63
Massachusetts/Ohio 62
Georgia 69
Florida/Michigan 58
Virginia 56
Minnesota 54
The states with the fewest golfers are Delaware and Montana (2 each) while Vermont and Wyoming each have 4 representatives on golf according to this census.
6. What is your current handicap? (rounded to the nearest whole number) According to this census, the average handicap or golf is slightly lower than 17.5 (slightly lower as there are 20 players who identify as better than scratch, but were counted as 0 for the purposes of this average).
7. Recently,my handicap has been... 1262 (61.35%) of you have been reducing your handicaps lately - well done! 8.81% of you need to stop the recent rise in your handicap 29.84% of you are remaining relatively unchanged/consistent
8. My status as a golfer is... The vast majority of us (96.15%) are amateur players/weekend hackers while there are at least 8 current professionals among us, 3 former pros and 68 aspiring pros
9. What would you say is your preferred brand of club? I appreciate this question didn't suit everyone, as putters are different to irons as wedges are different to drivers - you might like a brand in one club, but loathe it in another. Without wanting to make this survey too in-depth, I think the below table is a decent snapshot of golf's preferred club brands (and really sorry I forgot about the PXG crew!)
Brand # that express it as 'favorite'
TaylorMade 532
Callaway 380
Mizuno 303
Titleist 270
Ping 218
Cobra 126
Cleveland 46
Wilson 46
Nike 39
Srixon 32
Ben Hogan 20
Adams 13
Miura 9
Dunlop 6
Bridgestone 4
MacGregor 4
Bettinardi 2
Honma 2
Vulcan 2
Obviously a lot to unpack here and there a LOT of variables. Of particular interest is the love for a now defunct golf brand (Nike) ahead of leading brands such as Srixon and Miura. Also, there is a noticeable drop-off from Ping to Cobra and an even greater one from Cobra to Cleveland.
When you isolate the data to those with a 0 or better handicap, the results look like this:
TaylorMade (9) Titleist (7) Callaway (3) Mizuno (3) Ping (3) Cleveland (2) Miura (1) Nike (1)
10. Do you prefer to mix or match? 19.57% prefer to match your sets while 80.43% don't mind what's in the bag, as long as it works for you.
11. What brand of ball do you primarily play?
Brand Number who play it
Titleist 462
Whatever I find in my bag or the woods 290
Callaway 249
TaylorMade 211
Srixon 194
Bridgestone 170
Kirkland 121
Vice 119
Snell 79
Wilson 39
Nike 21
Top Flite 19
Oncore 16
Maxfli 13
Inesis 8
Volvik 8
Mizuno 7
Pinnacle 6
Noodle 3
Seed 2
Sugar 2
Slazenger 2
OtheVarious 12
12. Do you think the ball you play has a significant impact on your game? 37.59% of you think it's VERY important 19.40% of you don't think it matters at all 43.01% don't mind, as long as it's a ball by a 'leading' manufacturer
17/20 of BETTER than scratch golfers said that ball choice is critical. The only surprising thing about this is that it wasn't 20/20! The average handicap of players who suggest ball choice is very important is 14.16 (down 3+ whole points from the overall golf average) and if you include the BETTER than scratch handicappers as zero, that falls to 13.85.
13. What is your position on iron covers? 57 of you (2.77%) use iron covers 821 of you (39.97%) of you think these 57 people should be openly mocked 1176 (57.26%) of you think these 57 people should do whatever they like :)
14. Do you drink alcohol while golfing? 17.96% of you don't see any difference between a golf course and an open bar 29.60% of you drink and play some of the time 24.74% of you drink occasionally 27.70% of you never drink while golfing
Of the 29 zero or better handicappers among us, 11 never drink on the course and 5 drink most of the time!
15. What is your preferred tee time? 40.55% of you enjoy gettingup at the crack of dawn for an early morning tee time 27.46% of you like a morning slot, but without the early wake-up 14.41% of you would rather play in the afternoon 13.00% of you enjoy finishing the day with twilight golf Just 4.58% of you prefer to tee off at lunchtime
16. What is your preferred way of getting around the course? 45.13% of you prefer driving 32.18% of you are card carrying members of the push cart mafia 22.69% of you mental bastards prefer to walk and carry
17. Are you a member of a club? 71.23% of golf are nomads 23.81% of us are full year members of a club 4.96% of us are members of a club for part of the year
18. Have you ever had a hole-in-one? 10.18% of you have an ace to your name 89.82% of us are still searching for that elusive milestone!
19. Who do you prefer golfing with? 76.53% of us would rather golf with our friends 12.03% most enjoy playing with family 10.37% prefer the solitude of a solo round 1.07% of you most enjoy the company of strangers
20. Hot or cold? 67.53% of you would prefer to play in roasting hot conditions 32.47% would rather play in the freezing cold
21. What is your biggest pet peeve on the course?
Here's how you responded to the pre-defined answers:
Peeve # of you who most hate this
Slow play 1051
Lack of course care 214
People who hit up on you 204
'Put me down for bogey' guy 147
People who litter 145
Bluetooth speakers 111
Unsolicited advice 93
And here are some of the best 'write in' answers!
22. What do you consider to be the best part of your game? 34.95% of you are best with an iron in your hands 31.44% of you are magicians around the green with a wedge 16.84% of you feel most at home on the greens 16.77% of you love to step on to the tee with the big dog
23. What do you consider to be the worst part of your game? 45.62% of you aren't confident with driver in hand 20.25% of you least like putting 18.55% don't strike irons well compared to the rest of your game 15.58% of you are most uncomfortable with a wedge
24. Assuming you had not achieved either, would you rather... 68.01% of you would rather play a whole round to par or better 31.99% of you would prefer to write a "1" on your score card
25. Which shot produces the most pleasure for you? An utterly PURE mid/long iron right out of the sweet spot (40.12%) Ripping a booming drive down the middle of the fairway (30.62%) Reading the break and hitting the ideal weight on a putt (11.74%) A pin-point chip/pitch to tap-in range (9.54%) Crushing a wood off the deck (4.67%) Splashing out of the sand to a few inches from the cup (2.58%) A perfectly judged bump & run (0.73%)
So that's all of the questions with pre-defined answers, which was much easier for me to dissect than the qualitative answers to come! With upward of 2000 responses, I can't depict every answer, so have done my best to group them and provide some outlying humour and interesting responses.
26. Who are you picking to drain a 20-foot breaking putt to save your life?
By far the most popular response was "Tiger" or a variation of it (including "2000 Sunday Tiger" or "Young Tiger" or simply just an emoji and there are so many variations of TW, Eldrick, El Tigre etc. that I am not going to tally them up - just trust me on this, he is far and away the top choice!)
A lot of you would back yourself for the putt. Some because you legitimately think you will make it, others because they will feel more motivated than anyone on earth while others wouldn't consider burdening another person with that responsibility!
So here's the list I've generated with everyone who had 5 or more mentions.
A special shout out to....
27. If you could change one rule in golf, what would it be?
Another one where I made it pretty difficult to analyse and display the results! But here are a few of the top answers (in what I interpret as order of popularity), and please feel free to access the results yourself if you want to sort through them all.
While sorting through these responses, it became apparent just how difficult it is to please all golfers. On one line, someone says "Collared shirts compulsory" and on the next, someone says "Collared shirts optional!"
And finally, this one tickled me...
"If you are not on the green and can run to your ball and play another shot within 5 seconds, the first one shouldn't count!"
28. What is your hottest/most controversial golf take?
Another one that's impossible to really depict succinctly, so here are some interesting responses, copied and pasted exactly as you wrote them!
29. What is the best golf course you have ever played?
Have aggregated the most popular answers to the best of my ability, capped at 6+ responses.
30. What is your bucket list course that you are yet to play?
Again, a lot of variations here which made it tough for me to sort the data, but have done my best to sample a Top 10. I was very surprised to see Augusta behind St Andrews and so far behind Pebble but I suppose people subconsciously don't vote for courses they have no legitimate way of ever playing. I'd be interested to see these results if I re-phrased the question to "You have a free, no questions asked tee time anywhere in the world, name your club..."
31. What is the ONE thing golf administrators ought to do to encourage more people (particularly young people) to play the sport?
This was a genuinely encouraging list of 2000+ results to read though. We often read about the 'doom & gloom' aspects of the future of our sport, but there is a vibrant and dedicated golf community out there thinking of ways to perpetuate interest in the sport and keep the flame lit for the next generation.
Again, here's a sampling of what I would consider to be the most popular responses.
32. What is the best tip, or piece of advice you have ever received that's improved your game?
This one is just too crazy to aggregate, so please view all responses (in column AG) here :)
But I will list EVERY bit of advice provided by our scratch or better players.
33. If you had the attention of EVERY SINGLE PLAYER in the world for 10 whole seconds, what would you say?
Again, too much for me to break down, so you can see all responses here in column AH, but here are some of my favorites and some of the more popular ones!
Thanks again for your input! I might edit this later with some more findings, but that's enough for now!
submitted by SundayRed to golf [link] [comments]

Cube Start Guide!

I wrote this post to help players new to the Cube format and posted it to mtgcube.
I thought I would post it here for people who may not know (or know little) about the format and are interested to learn what it has to offer and how to get started playing one of the best formats in Magic!
If anyone has any questions I'd love to help :)
---------------------------------------------------------------
This post aims to draw together a bunch of research that helped me get started cubing, pulling on advice from other cubers, resources on the mtgcube subreddit, and external articles. The idea is to cover the basics, answer the FAQs and collate links to other resources for further reading.
(please bear in mind this is a round up of advice through the lens of my own bias, I am not claiming any advice here to be the way things should be done, just to provide a starting point to people who don’t yet know how things could be done)

Post breakdown:

0 - WHAT IS A CUBE?:

“A cube is a ... collection of (often powerful) cards used for drafting and playing Limited. Drafting a cube is similar to drafting booster packs, but instead of drafting from three fifteen-card Magic booster packs, you draft from fifteen-card "packs" that you create from your cube.” - Building Your First Cube)
Tolarian Community College - What is a Magic: The Gathering Cube?
Main cube benefits:
How many players do I need to play my cube?:
Cube can be enjoyed with anywhere between 2-8 players. A brilliant summary of different draft methods for different player counts can be found here

1 - QUICK START:

So you like the look of cube and want to get started playing the best limited format ASAP? Here are some of the easiest ways to start building and playing Cube:
If you decide to build your own first cube, as long as you have reasonably even colour sections and a curves similar to what you might want to draft in retail limited you will produce an environment that will be a blast to play.
Other early facets you may wish to explore are:
Remember, you can always add and remove cards as you see fit. It’s not necessary to agonise over individual card choice at this point (although of course you may if that floats your boat).
CubeCobra is the community favourite cube management website. It is similar to existing decklist websites (mtggoldfish etc.), but made specifically for cube. It has all sorts of tools for managing, analysing and playtesting your cube, and is invaluable for a cube designer.
**Playing your cube:**Playing paper magic is currently challenging to impossible depending on where you are in the world. See the Resource Hub for ways to play your cube online.
Bonus Link - Lucky paper - How and why to build a cube (podcast)
IF YOU HAVE READ TO HERE AND LIKE THE LOOK OF CUBE:

2 - DETAILED START:

To help make this section more searchable/digestible I’ve split it into what I’d consider to be the key elements to think about when building your first cube:
​
2.1 Size 2.2 Power & Removal 2.3 Archetypes 2.4 Signposting 2.5 Gold count 2.6 Nonbasic lands
2.7 Colourless 2.8 Colourless Ramp 2.9 Singleton or Not? 2.10 Board State 2.11 Devotion 2.12 First Cube
​
2.1 SIZE:
The size of your cube affects a number of factors, such as card density, number of players, variation between drafts, cohesion of archetypes etc. Typical cube sizes are multiples of 180 (as they divide nicely into 15 card packs)
2.2 POWER (and power consistency):
How powerful do you want the contents of your cube to be? u/land_of_Mordor has written up a brilliant shorthand for differentiating cube power levels here This scale ranges from 1 (Retail limited) to 10 (Fully powered, absolute strongest cards in magic the gathering)
It is important to consider power consistency when building your cube. Ideally most of your cards ought to sit at a roughly equal power band to provide fun and fair gameplay. For an extreme example, a cube that runs sol ring (found in ~strix 8+) should not include drastically lower power cards such as celestial prism (and vice versa). Ideally you don’t want situations where your drafters win because they have the “better” cards than their opponent. Cube is an opportunity to move away from the chaff/bombs divide present in retail limited.
A useful tool for gauging the balance in your cube after building it is to use the filters in CubeCobra to sort your cube by “Elo” and scrutinise any outliers. The elo system ranks cards by recording each card picked against every other card passed in a pack. <1000 elo is very low >2000 elo is incredibly high (power 9 sit in this spot).
Due to how elo is calculated it doesn’t take into account:
In summary, Elo is a useful tool to flag outliers, but individual card merit should still be assessed by the cube designer in the environment they are creating.
2.2(a) REMOVAL:
Removal in cube plays a significant role in how your environment functions and its overall power level. Density and efficiency are the main dials of removal that can be tweaked to adjust your format.
Ideally density and efficiency of removal should reflect the rest of your cube. For example, high efficiency high density removal is best suited to environments that have very efficient threats.
Efficiency can be adjusted by raising/lowering the CMC of removal spells (Murder vs Daring Demolition), deciding on instant vs sorcery, or including removal with restrictions/drawbacks (Bone Splinters)
Attaching removal to bodies increases both density and efficiency. E.g. Ravenous Chupacabra
Density can otherwise be adjusted by increasing/decreasing the removal card count in your environment.
2.3 ARCHETYPES:
You may wish to decide on supported archetypes at the inception of your cube, or allow them to present themselves through play of your quick start cube.
Archetype support is a tricky beast, many cube designers have differing opinions on how (or even if) archetype support should be implemented. Two main axis that archetype support can be measured on are “Parasitism” and “Weight”
"Parasitism in cube" video and thread
Parasitic strategies work within their own defined bounds, don’t care much about other cards, and are underperformers/useless outside of their strategy.
Running cards that have a good floor (i.e. worst case scenario) but improve in your chosen archetypes is a good way to reduce parasitism in your cube. Additionally, running cards that fit multiple archetypes can be desirable e.g. Rimrock Knight is useful to mono R aggro, spells matters, and weenies
“Weight” is the term I’m giving to the measurement of how prominent each archetype is in each colour. A lower weight may allow for more organic strategies to develop in your draft environment A higher weight may result in drafters feeling like they are being pushed to do what you "want" them to do
For example if you run 20 Prowess creatures in red and white, players may feel obliged to lean into the strategy given to them instead of having the agency to build their own unique deck.
Where your cube sits on the Parasitism/Weight scale will be personal to you, and will likely change as you develop and adjust your cube. You and your playgroup's enjoyment can help drive these decisions.
u/Japahn has an excellent article here on archetype design in cube.
2.4 SIGNPOSTING:
Signpost cards are cards that support and communicate the presence of a strategy to drafters. These can be used effectively to help players understand what is possible in your cube. For example, if a player opens a pack and sees Thermo Alchemist and/or Talrand, Sky Summoner they might reasonably believe that a “Spellslinger” theme is present in your cube.
In the same line of thinking, it can be worth avoiding false signposts that lead players to believe a strategy or theme is present that actually doesn’t exist. For example one half of the blood combo without the other, or otherwise playable cards that suggest a strategy that doesn’t exist e.g. Champion of Dusk without vampire tribal.
You may even consider eliminating one-off mechanics for comprehension. E.g. I cut Aether hub in favour of Tendo Ice Bridge after a drafter was disappointed that Energy wasn’t a present mechanic in the cube.
Gold cards are a good opportunity to show your drafters some of the strategies possible in each colour combination. This should feel familiar to players, as WotC employs the same design in their retail sets.
2.5 GOLD COUNT:
Gold cards can be very fun, they act as good signposts and are often players’ & designers’ favourite cards. The temptation to include lots of gold cards is high among beginning cube designers for these reasons, however a lower count is generally more beneficial for the environment.
Fundamentally, gold cards are relevant to far fewer players and have a tendancy to wheel around the table before landing with a player who doesn’t want them.
For example, a Lightning Helix is very relevant to your Boros drafter (if there even is one this session), lightly relevant to your Naya/Jeskai/Mardu drafters (if there are any) and irrelevant to everyone else. In contrast Lightning Strike is relevant to ⅕ of your Mono colour drafters. 5/10 of your 2 colour drafters and 6/10 of your 3 colour drafters. Someone at your table will be playing red, and this card is guaranteed to be relevant and desirable.
More cards able to be played by more people in more strategies = more agency for your drafters
20-30 gold cards in 360 anecdotally works very nicely.
2.6 NONBASIC LANDS:
Good fixing in cube is crucial to help games run smoothly. Not being able to play magic due to mana screw is one of the least enjoyable aspects of the game. Good fixing reduces the number of feel bad games your drafters experience due to poor variance.
30-40 lands in 360 cards will help ensure the games are more enjoyable for everyone. Unfortunately, good lands can be expensive, but proxy printing/sharpie changes can solve this issue! (proxy resource links below)
(it is worth noting a risk of too much fixing is that everyone is able to draft 5 colour piles of the best cards(this may still happen even at lower land count if 7 of your drafters ignore the fixing and one player snaps up 20 lands))
2.7 COLOURLESS:
Colourless cards are effectively “free” picks for your drafters, allowing them to remain open in the draft while providing powerful effects. Fun utility cards and curve filling creatures are perfect candidates for the colourless section.
Due to the “free” nature of colourless cards, you may wish to balance them in such a way that they don’t outclass your coloured cards.
2.8 COLOURLESS RAMP:
Colourless ramp such as Sol Ring and Dimir Signet allow your drafters to cheat past the early stages of the game. Be very cautious about including cheap colourless ramp in any lower powered environment.
Reasons to be careful:
  1. Strong ramp can invalidate aggro
  2. If you want ramp to be part of Green’s identity, colourless ramp can invalidate it (or reduce its uniqueness)
  3. It can cause swingy games based on variance - Opponent plays a T1 sol ring and you have no ramp. You’re almost guaranteed to lose
A rough guide for rocks that produce 1 mana:
Don’t be fooled by “enters tapped” clauses. Sphere of the Suns is still likely too strong for a low powered cube.
Bonus: Rock List
2.9 SINGLETON OR NOT?:
Breaking singleton is a fine thing to do, but typically is only worth doing to fulfil a design goal that can’t be achieved by another unique card. A common singleton break is for nonbasic lands, as cube designers often want to provide the best possible fixing for their drafters.
The first iteration of my cube broke singleton in a few places and it was fine, but very quickly I felt like I was wasting slots that I'd rather use to increase variety and replayability.
Interesting write-up on breaking singleton by u/Karametric
2.10 BOARD STATE:
Do you want a front heavy (i.e. 3/2 creatures) or a back heavy (i.e. 2/3 creatures) board state? This article discusses the advantages of a front heavy board state.
I won’t repeat the detail of this article here as I’ve nothing extra to add, but the main point is that a front heavy board allows for meaningful attacks and reduces board stalls.
2.11 DEVOTION:
Cards with a high colour devotion (i.e. multiple coloured pips in their casting cost) are more difficult to cast by more of your drafters. For example Knight of the White Orchid can only reliably be cast on curve by a mono white (or heavily white) deck. Cards with low CMC and high devotion are particularly problematic, as finding 2 white by turn 2 in a Selesnya deck is a lot harder than finding 2 white by turn 5 to cast Regal Caracal.
When designing with this in mind, high devotion cards can be used to tune the accessibility & viability of 3+ colour decks.
2.12 FIRST CUBE:
u/Fleme’s write up on assessing your first cube was a massive boon for reviewing the first cube I built. Reading this before and/or after building your cube should provide lots of useful insight.

3 EXTRA

Cube Costs:
Within reason, cube can be as expensive or cheap as you want it to be. Here’s a quick breakdown of costs associated with cube:

4 RESOURCE HUB

A hub for cube and draft resources!
Many of the resources below have been discussed and analysed in a vast number of different articles/videos/podcasts. If any one topic takes your interest, a quick google will almost always lead you to more content on a topic. E.g. Quadrant theory has been analysed by a plethora of different players on many platforms. One just has to google.
Sidebar:
The sidebar on the right of the mtgcube subreddit contains lots of useful links to podcasts/discord channels/popular threads etc. Check out what it has to offer.(If you are on mobile, sidebar links can be accessed by scrolling to the top of the subreddit and pressing the "about" button in the right/centre of the page)
How to draft:
Card Evaluation:
How to shuffle:
Booster pack options:
Cube shell/Cubamajig comparison (s)
Ways to play online:
Accessories:
Proxying:
Premade cubes:
Popular cubes to copy/gain inspiration from:
Other:
Extras:
Shameless plug:
I hope this resource hub is useful, I've been writing and thinking about it for some time now and it feels great to finally put it out there for people to enjoy!
If anyone has any feedback, suggestions or useful links that ought to be included, please do let me know :)
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submitted by womib to LinkToJokerSLot123 [link] [comments]

What To Do With My Second-Hand PC (New to Reddit)(Music Production/Gaming Rig)

Hey, I'm new to Reddit, and I made an account because I need some computer hardware advice.
I'm not the best with computer hardware and I'm pretty decent with software as long as I don't have to get too hacky. I may also get some terminology wrong so sorry about that in advance.
I read the rules for this subreddit and I'm not sure if this post lies correctly here but if my post doesn't get banned I'll leave it here (is this supposed to go on buildapacforme?, I'm not sure I'm asking about multiple parts)
This is going to be a long post but here's the TL;DR - I have a second-hand computer with bits and pieces and I'm unsure what to do with it. Is it worth keeping and upgrading, or selling to save up for a new one?
I feel like I need some expert advice because I'm unfamiliar with the value of PC parts as a whole (especially older stuff).
This computer I got second hand from a guy in the UK (I live in London but am non-native).
OPEN ISSUE: Possibly faulty system memory, see below*
The specs are as follows:
CPU: Intel Core i7 950
Motherboard: ASUS P6X58D-E
RAM: Kingston (Genesis) HyperX DDR3 4GB 1600 MHz (x6) (only 12GB in use at the moment)
Graphics Card: Nvidia GTX 1050 ti EVGA (not the card that came with the PC originally)
OS: Win 10 Pro x64 (I think it's legit, he gave me a CD to go with it)
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower Xt 775w
HDD: Western Digital 3TB green (wdc wd30ezrx-00mmmb0)
SSD: Samsung 840 EVO 500 GB
A pretty sleek Corsair case (black with a see through window on one side).
It also has a CD drive.
The main reason I got this computer was that the guy who sold it to me left a bunch of software on it for me to use for music production (Ableton, Omnisphere, Maschine, and a lot of plugins, etc.). I have since gotten a mac mini and other software, but I'm open to having this as a spare music rig for Pro Tools (unless there's a better option). Pro Tools in particular, since my paid version doesn't work on Catalina and I have to pay again to update.
The parts and the computer itself are pretty old by computer standards and the guy said it was at least 7 years old when I got it (in 2018).
It came originally with another graphics card (GTX 760 I think), but this card died in under a year and onboard graphics couldn't handle even browsing the desktop so it lay for a while.
I decided to buy a graphics card because I wanted to try some gaming on it, so I got the 1050 ti and it kind of fixed the computer for a while. I could browse the computer normally again, use the music programs and even play games on it.
*After a while, I started getting some blue screen of deaths and after I fixed those there was one BSOD that kept popping up about system memory. I got this usually an hour after booting (quicker with more intense programs) and Windows Memory Diagnostics didn't help me at all so it lay again. I asked around and one guy recommended taking out some RAM and spacing them out with one DIMM slot in between, and to my surprise, I have not yet encountered that error and it's been a couple of days now without a BSOD (I'm now down from 24GB RAM to 12).
There are corsair fans cooling the CPU and RAM inside, and they are connected to a panel on the front where I can dial in the speeds of the fans (the panel is made by a company called "Scythe").
The CPU is a bit of a yikes for me as far as performance goes (at least in music production and some games I think...can CPU bottleneck frames?) and I have heard that if the CPU and motherboard have to be swapped then it becomes a question of a new computer.
Now the question is what to do with this PC. I feel like it could continue to deteriorate with the parts being as old as they are, and since the original graphics card died and my RAM has been halved (I haven't tested all 6 sticks, but I know 3 out of 6 work) it may just be a matter of time for the rest.
So far I invested 550 GBP into the PC and the new graphics card. I have a Razer Ornata (not Chroma) keyboard and a Razer mouse (my main peripherals not including my spares).
Here are my options (any other suggestions would be welcome):
1) If it can be saved (without investing the price of a new computer anyway) I would like to try, and maybe I can replace some parts with new ones that will be compatible. Ideally, I would have a CPU that compliments the GTX 1050ti nicely which means I can use it to game and mix on Pro Tools. This saves me the hassle of transferring everything to a new computer.
2) I sell the computer parts (or the whole thing if I'm lucky) and use the money for a new computer (probably win laptop so I can make music while traveling). I also have a laptop I can sell, it's an Acer V3-771G. I can put the money for both together towards something new. I could also sell my peripherals to add to that sum. This is attractive to me because the laptop I have has 1 hr battery life and has performance that I would describe as "functional". I'm unfamiliar with selling spare parts and old computers online so any pointers would be appreciated.
I guess I'm looking for the most practical and cost-effective answer. Maybe more practical and comfortable than cost-effective, if getting hacky is the only solution.
I'm happy to provide any more information. Thanks in advance for reading the long post.
submitted by IAskethOfThou to buildapc [link] [comments]

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Thought Process Behind Building a PC. For Beginners, by Beginners.

Disclaimer: I wrote this out of boredom, and to put every knowledge I gathered this last months somewhere for everyone to see. I do not claim any authority nor will take any responsability for whatever you decide to do with this guide. I guarantee that all I wrote, I wrote in good faith. I would really love to be criticized and corrected. Thank you u/buildapc for your help!
​
Hello fellow /builder! You are probably here to ask for help about your dream pc build. I know I did. For hours. Weeks, actually. I have put together my system about a month ago. Rather than simply sharing my story and showing off my build (I'm not showing because cable management is b a d, ugh), I'd like to give something back to this wonderful community. So here it is, a guide for beginners, in layman terms, without unnecessary technical information.

Fundamentals

In order to even begin to request help for building your pc, first you need to know what your computer is going to be used for! There's 3 orders of information priority:
Primary informations:
If you can't provide these, nobody can really help you, at best they can make educated guesses. These informations relate directly to the parts responsible for your performance: CPU, Graphics Card, RAM, and indirectly to Motherboard.
If you own a monitor, you need to find out its specs either by googling the model name, or in Advanced Display Informations. To find details about your monitor, head to Settings > System > Display and scroll down and click on “Advanced Display Settings”. If you are going to buy a monitor, you should always have resolution and refresh rate in mind when picking one.
Budget and intended purpose are self explanatory!
Secondary informations:
These informations are optional, but might help tailoring your build to your exact needs.
Let's say you like Cities Skylines and are going to play that title 90% of the time. Now whoever is helping you, is going to recommend up to 32 gb ram and a slightly overpowered CPU to handle that. Let's say you want to play e-sports only, you might be able to scale down the project and save something on your budget. It's not an everyday occurrance to find someone who is going to play a couple of titles only, but it's less uncommon than you might think! Knowing this specific piece of information can make a measurable difference.
If your intention is overclocking, then it's a good idea to say so in your build request. Not every piece of hardware can be overclocked, and not every motherboard can support overclocking. Nevertheless, if you need this guide, then I kindly suggest you do not oveclock.
About ambient temperature, it's only really a concern at the high spectrum of the curve, but it might force you to pick a thermal solution.
More on thermal solution later.
Tertiary informations:
These informations are merely cosmetic.
Some people are obsessed by RGB, some are not. If you don't mention your cosmetic preference, nobody is going to care. Function is always over form when building a pc, particularly with a budget in mind.
Most people prefer a brand - I know I do - but most will settle for something else as long as it's better for their needs. If you are a die hard brand loyalist, you should mention that before someone figures out a build for you only to scrap it because you'd rather have a nVidia Graphics Card or Intel instead of AMD CPUs.
It happens mostly when upgrading, but sometimes people want their build to end up in their dream (or old) case. If you are in this position, you should mention that because of space constraints. More on this later.
So, here's an example of a terrible build request:
pls help I need help for a new pc for under 1k, help?
And here's an example of a good build request:
Hello, I own a 1440p/75hz monitor, I want to play AAA titles at ultra and my budget is about 1200€. I prefer AMD, want RGB (unless it's over my budget), and have a mid tower UL7R4 C00L PC case themed red. I also need some advice on water cooling.
Signed: a gentleman and a scholar
​

Doing your research

Sometimes, you just want to figure out things on your own. Good. Here's what I did, starting with basics.
This is the list of parts directly tied to performance:
This is the list of parts that support your performance:
This is the list of parts that handle your system safety and are indirectly tied to performance
How do you even begin? Let's see first what these parts do.
CPU
The Processor... processes. Want to open a Chrome tab? Process that! Discord in background? A core will take care of that! Preparing a frame for your GPU to render with lights, textures, shadows? That's exactly what your CPU is for.
Explaining how and what a CPU does is over the scope of this guide, so here's what you really need to know: core clock, and core count. And that's it for the most part. These two concepts are interrelated. You could have 64 core to work with at a low core clock and it could handle a ludicrous amount of processes, while unable to handle a single process that takes up to 4 cores but requires from each of them a high core clock. Such is the case with videogames, which mostly work off a limited number of cores and will perform better the faster each used core is. More cores ain't going to help, because the game ain't going to use it unless it is programmed to do so!
Manufacturer usually take care of this for the consumers, by splitting their hardware portfolio in processors for servers and for consumers. AMD server CPUs are called Epyc and have a consumer equivalent (read: from the same generation) called Ryzen. Intel has Xeons for servers and their i3/i5/i7 line up for consumers.
Every generation of CPUs has its own fitting socket. You physically can't put a CPU in a socket that was not designed for that CPU. A CPU socket is a part of motherboards.
If you are going to pick a Ryzen CPU, it is a good idea to check what RAM capacity and clock it works best with. You can find benchmarks online for that.
Some CPUs are integrated with Graphics Card. These are referred to as APUs, and I'm not going to talk about them because I'm uninformed.
Tip: when picking a CPU, check console hardware. I'm not joking. Consoles are meant for gaming and are the common denominator of hardware progress for gaming. PS5 and XBox X are going to have 8 core CPUs, of which 2 are reserved for the system, thus 6 cores for videogames to play with. It's a reasonable expectation that the new standard for CPU core count is going to be 6 in the years to come.
Graphics Card
If you're a gamer, you want to pay close attention when picking a good GPU for your build. The GPU market is not as segmented as CPU market is, and you can easily find benchmarks for each of them at any mainstream resolution tier. Thus, picking a GPU is commonly the first step of your build, because it is directly tied to the resolution and refresh rate of your monitor.
You need not to worry too much about the specs of your GPU. Benchmarks are pretty accurate at predicting their performance, but picking an aftermarket card (sometimes referred to as custom cards) can be tricky. Every Graphic Card design is reinterpreted by different manufacturers, offer different software and bios support, different thermal solutions and features.
Here's some of them:
About I/O shield: this is generally a concern for multi monitor setup, but you should always double check that the graphics card you are buying has the correct port for your monitor, be it HDMI, Display Port, DVI or VGA. Adapters exist, but are unreliable.
AMD and Nvidia have their own V-sync function, which must be supported by the monitor in the first place in order to work. AMD has Free Sync, and most monitors have this. Nvidia has G-Sync, and most monitors do not have this. Good news for Nvidia, though. They finally caved in and added support for Free Sync, but your monitor needs to have both Free Sync and Display Port 1.2 (well, most of them do, and you should always double check that).
Resources:
Motherboard
The motherboard is the lymphatic system of your build. It draws power from the PSU to be carefully administered to your other components. Some people think that cheaping out on Motherboard is a good idea.
To a degree.
As long as your motherboard can handle your CPU power draw, is compatible with your RAM, has enough SATA ports for your storage, has a good number of USB ports and a decent BIOS, it is good to go. Easy right? ...well.
Here's some research you can do on your own:
Motherboard power draw is very hard to investigate, you need to rely on trusted reviewers (such as Buildzoid, Gamer Nexus, Hardware Unboxed) or tier lists on popular forums/sites/reddits.
Note that if you plan to overclock, you must have a good Motherboard.
Tip: the bulk of your work can be done automatically by PCPartPicker system builder. Pick your designated CPU, compatible motherboards will be already filtered. If you pick both CPU and motherboard, RAMs will also be filtered for compatibility.
Resources:
RAM
While PCPartPicker exists, picking a compatible RAM is easy. Picking the right RAM is something else entirely.
First things first: do never, ever, buy a single stick of ram. You want 2 sticks of RAMs, which should be bought in pairs. I can't advice against buying 4 sticks of RAM, but make sure motherboard supports them or do some in depth research because system stability is at stake. Nowadays, 16gb of ram, rated 3200 to 3600 mhz, with a Cas Latency (CL) of 16 is the norm.
Ryzen CPUs are particularly sensitive to RAMs. As a rule of thumb you should get 3000-3200 mhz CL16 rams for Zen+, and 3200-3600 mhz CL16 rams for Zen2. You can get better rams, but there's no guarantee they will be stable if they are terribly overpowered for your Ryzen CPU (a good motherboard and a good overclocker might make anything stable with little compromise nevertheless). Lower latency RAMs usually cost more than higher frequency rams, but will not incur in such issues.
Here's benchmarks for 2 of the most popular CPUs:
Bottleneck
Bottleneck is what happens when in a particular task, one of your component (RAM, CPU or GPU) is at the limit of its performance, while the others aren't. Let's cut to the chase: you can not avoid bottlenecking entirely. Bottleneck is hardware, software and settings dependant. You can not make the perfect match, you can only avoid a bad match.
This is extremely dependant on target resolution and refresh rate. CPU has the same workload at either 1080p or 4k. Meanwhile, a given GPU might give you perfect 144 fps at 1080p, and struggle to reach 75 at 4k. The higher your resolution is, the better your GPU needs to be. Conversely, if you know you are playing at 4k and can push 75 fps at most, CPU might aswell be slightly cheaper, because you ain't ever going to use it to its full extent. With consideration for the target resolution and refresh rate, the rule of thumb is: within a given generation of hardware, same range components will not bottleneck each other (a lot).
Let's say you are playing Cities Skyline at over 100k population. While not much really changed for your GPU, at that point your CPU is probably gasping for watts. Ouch.Let's say you are playing AC:Odyssey. Your GPU is probably working at breakneck pace while your CPU is scheduling her counseling (yup, graphics cards are a she).
The same CPU and the same GPU took turns bottlenecking each other, because the workload for each of them was uneven in each title. This is why if you play only a handful of titles it is a good idea to keep them in mind while you request help or figure out your build.
This is corollary to the previous point. Some specific settings are CPU and/or GPU intensity, and lowering them will make a big difference. This is just here to remind you that you do have some influence over bottleneck, and figuring out a sweet spot where both your CPU and GPU are working close to the same pace is a good idea.
Resources:
You can crosscheck CPU/GPU bottleneck with this site but always keep in mind this is at best a rough estimate that feeds off algorithms, and you should never ever obsess over bottleneck unless you're breaking the rule of thumb (same generation, same tier, with resolution and refresh rate in mind): https://www.gpucheck.com/gpu-benchmark-comparison
Thermal Solutions
Air or water? The answer is: budget.
Air is cheap and reliable, meaning that in the worst case scenario a fan stops spinning and you replace it for 10-15€. Air has diminishing returns, meaning that throwing money at it is only going to help so much performance wise. When buying an air cooler, you need to check for its height to make sure it fits in your case and doesn't touch any other component (mostly happens with RAMs and rarely with Motherboard heat sinks).
Water is expensive, powerful but potentially unsafe. A bad installation, a loose bit, spilled water on a running motherboard, the recipe for disaster. Let's be clear here: water cooling your CPU is a perfectly valid solution (it's the best!), as long as your budget is right. You can't cheap out on a water cooler, because if it breaks or fails it will potentially kill your whole build. If you are going to buy a modest water cooler, my personal recommendation is to go for air instead: you are going to spend less and have literally the same performance. If you can spare more of your budget for water cooling, go ahead. Water cooling has a higher performance ceiling, which means less diminishing returns, which means that as long as you keep throwing money at it, it will get better.
TL;DR: low into mid range Air cooling wins, mid range to high range Water cooling wins.
This is an example of a benchmark between various air and water coolers: https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3573-zalman-cnps20x-cpu-cooler-review-benchmark-vs-noctua-nh-d15-others
What do high and low temperatures really mean for your hardware?
Every single piece of hardware is rated for a specific temperature. When it approaches that temperature, the hardware will start thermal throttling until eventually shutting down. You could call throttling underclocking but, at its core, it's a safety measure to prevent irreversible damage to your components. Most pieces of new hardware nowadays also have a "Boost" feature. This feature is effectively a dynamic, factory overclock, meant to push your hardware to its limit while the conditions (read: temperatures) are right. The lower your component temperature, the more it will boost.
Technically speaking, a CPU or a GPU boosting for less while temperatures are high, does not strictly qualify for throttling, but this is merely semantycs. The thing is, that not only your parts are safer, more stable, and will last longer while their temperatures are low. Your parts will also be undeniably faster. A good thermal solution is the safest overclock you can get!
PSU
Your entire build is at the mercy of the reliability of a single component: the PSU. There are standards that you should always look up to when buying a PSU, and the following is written with exactly those standards in mind, and with the intent of teaching you about them.
Before picking a PSU, you first have to figure out the peak power draw of your whole build. This figure is meant to represent how much power your system is going to use under a full synthetic load, while every component is stressed beyond what constitutes normal and even stressful non-synthetic operation. Figuring it out can be tricky and each part has its own caveats. The baseline is always CPU + GPU + a realistic static figure meant to represent the rest of the components. Let's see each of them:
While TDP is a decent baseline, it doesn't exactly refers to the peak power draw. TDP means Thermal Design Power, and it refers to the maximum amount of heat generated in Watts, which might or might not coincide with peak power draw. It's good practice to check for power consumption benchmarks of the CPU you are going to buy, although most of those benchmarks are done with the entire system power consumption figures. The real peak power draw of the CPU under extreme circumstances is rather nebulous. A good bet if you just can't find benchmarks is adding 50% to the TDP to account for synthetic benchmarks, and up to 75% to account for both synthetics and overclock (this figure might not hold up in extreme overclocking). This is a very conservative figure that will most likely cover the vast majority of CPUs. Still, some TDPs are hilariously underrated. I can not stress this enough: you must look for benchmarks for your CPU power draw. Even if you stumble upon a system power consumption, you can use that as a baseline if the build is anywhere near your own.
GPUs peak power draw are much more adherent to their rated TDP, but there's a reliable way to check it out. The Power Limit of every GPU is written in their own BIOS, of which we luckily have a database: https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/
Search for Vendor, Brand and Model. Sometimes the entire range of the Power Limit is provided (minimum, stock, and maximum power draw), here's an example: RTX 2060. Sometimes it's just a single entry of Power Limit, and an Adjustment Range somewhere in there for you to figure out the minimum and maximum power draw, here's another example: RX 5600 XT. In this last example, you can read a nondescript "Total" under Power Limit and under Adjustment Range you can read "Power: -50% to +20%". This also gives you an accurate estimate of the extra power draw resulting from a software overclock.
Motherboard, RAMs, storage, fans and fans controllers, RGB, Water Pumps, WiFi, everything draws power, but it might be less than you would expect. Motherboards draw at most 10W, the biggest RAMs barely reach 10W per stick, SSD/M.2/HDD are in the ballpark of 2-5W. The peak power draw of all components of your system, except for CPU and GPU, is at the very most 50W. And that's a conservative figure, meant to account for the impossible case in which you somehow can push every single thing in your system to its limit.
So there it is, add up the power draw from CPU and GPU, then the static figure (50W), and that's your baseline. Well done! Now add about 25% and up to 40% to that figure depending on your anxiety levels, and that's the capacity you need to look for in your PSU. Not convinced? Check for power consumption benchmarks from reputable sources, they list the entire system setup, and then test the power consumption of the whole system at the socket. Even if the entire system is not exactly the same as yours, you can scale things up or down intuitevely researching those components.
Now, let's move onto PSUs.
PSUs have 3 main characteristics:
The rated capacity expressed in Watts refers to the stable point of continuous power delivery. In truth, most PSUs will handle much more power than that, this limit is commonly referred to as Peak or Maximum Power. For example, my PSU is rated at 550W, but benchmarks have shown it's peak power to be over 700W.
Good PSUs are very efficient. 80 Plus has taken it upon themselves to test the efficiency of most of the PSUs ever made. 80 Plus badges range from White (ew) to Titanium (ow). A 80 Plus Bronze is the absolute least I would settle for, but it's not a guarantee that you're buying a good PSU. Gold is a good standard, and most PSU that come with that badge are pretty good.
Quantitative data is not enough, not every PSU is born equal, and they will differ for quality. You can't possibly figure out the quality of a PSU without buying, testing, benching, and taking it apart. Luckily, some people on the internet have already done that for you. Refer to the resources down here to research for a PSU that fits your needs.
Resources:
Revisioned with the unvaluable help of u/GallantGentleman, the conversation took place here.
Case
A case is not merely cosmetic. A good case will support multiple fan configurations, have great cable management, and most importantly will fit all your components. Once you account for all of that, you can pick a case based on your taste. So here's what to consider before you even begin to care about aesthetics.
A few words or airflow. Positive and negative pressure are a measure of how much air is getting in your case versus how much air is getting out of your case. If you push more air out, it's negative pressure. If you push more air in, it's positive pressure.
Based on my own tests and everything I could find on the internet about it, I firmly believe positive air pressure is better than negative air pressure. Not only dust filters are going to keep your case dust free for longer while you have positive pressure, it is also that much better for GPU temps. Negative air pressure is still valid, I simply think it is inferior.
​

Now Build It!

Let's help the guy who requested help earlier.
Hello, I own a 1440p/75hz monitor, I want to play AAA titles at ultra and my budget is about 1200€. I prefer AMD, want RGB (unless it's over my budget), and have a mid tower UL7R4 C00L PC case themed red. I also need some advice on water cooling.
He wants to play AAA/ultra at 1440p/75hz. Let's assume he lives in Europe. A 2060 Super or a 2070 super will do him good. Let's check benchmarks: https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3486-nvidia-rtx-2060-super-and-2070-super-review-benchmarks . Well, the 2060s could keep up with that for the time being, but if there's any budget headroom, a 2070 super would do him better.
Now let's pair his GPU to a decent CPU. He needs to push at least 75 fps in the most demanding games. GPUcheck says R5 3600 will not bottleneck the 2070, which is cool, but gpucheck is good at a sight, you still need to check crossbenchmarks if you can find any, in this case you should look for the difference between 3600+2060s and 3600+2070s at 1440p. Here's something:
2070s + 3600 @ 2k*1440p (ultrawide) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0xdYMInuiA2060s + 3600 @ 1440p https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfc9cXWYtBk
All fine. 2070s can handle 1440p/75hz like a breeze and will max anything you throw at it for the next 2-3 years.
I'll just put the CPU and GPU in PCPartPicker, put a Tomahawk because it works with literally anything, and grab the best rams for a R5 3600 and the most reliable PSU I can find.
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/BNfG8M
There, within budget.
Does it even matter that there's no case? I mean you can stretch a bit, right? Right?
​
Revisioned on 21/07/2020. Some formatting fix, expanded Thermal Solutions, revisioned the entire PSU section with the help of u/GallantGentleman. Thank you all for the support, criticism, advices, and the awards! This guide is now over, and hopefully it will help anyone who stumbles upon it.
submitted by Cozzolino92 to buildapc [link] [comments]

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